What Links Small Independent Companies Around the World in the Global Downturn? by Alex Smailes
With family in LA, UK, Dubai, New Zealand and South Korea, the dedication to living in our home-island comes at a cost of having to travel often for family commitments - well, okay, not exactly a bad price to pay.
Through the last three years of the global economic downturn, We’ve been lucky enough to still be able to travel to both large metropolises, LA, London, San Francisco, Stockholm and yet always sneak in an off-the-beaten track adventure. Either through wine country or towns and villages specialising in local cuisine, as for us, often the journey becomes just as poignant as the destination.
Along the way, I’ve discovered a few similarities of how small local independent companies have survived, how consumer choices have adjusted and tastes shifted to the medium-term global economic downturn. I documented most of the trips on a iphone.
During the shock and doldrums of 2008, we headed north from LA past the rich mansions and even richer Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards of Napa and Sonoma. The global wine trade had taken a massive hit. While the US struggled to maintain rationale for their often higher priced products, France, one of the largest producers, for a long time has been struggling with a glut of quality table wine from the New World on the market. Recently, China’s new wealthy, with its rapacious appetite for anything fine, took over as being the second highest importer only to UK. While the UK is still currently the busiest wine importer, London is clearly just a trading point, not the leading consumer.
While restaurants and tastings remained booked in Napa, the region certainly took a hit with the mass foreign tourism. It looked to sustain itself with the optimistically predicted trend of staycations, being the vacation of choice that year.
For many in LA, it certainly felt like a time of reflection and strategy of how to remain relevant.
Enjoying a Rothko at LACMA
Onward through northern California and with a stunning drive to Portland, well known for its 90’s grunge and Emo music scene emergence in the naughties. It is also heralded as an up-and-coming creative industries leader amongst US cities. With its governance focused on sustainability, green and ethical food practices, its free-spirited hip-scene, it’s clear to see why young creatives are attracted. Both Wieden+Kennedy and Liquid whom merged with our brand guru Marty Neumeier in 2009, as some of my top picks.
On the return down the Pacific coast and beautiful Redwood country, we stopped off in town after town of abandoned suburban Americana. Like the opening scenes of an apocalyptic zombie movie; desolate strip mall lots for rent, well known brand outlets boarded up, even empty cinemas, cafes and bars. Scary.
In the nooks and crannies, we did find a camaraderie of like minded people willing to come together for the greater good of survival. In Willamette Valley, Oregon, long been touted as the new hot-spot for US wine, small crop producers who could not afford to go to market (with machinery and bottling costs in the millions) co-operatives have been set up for sharing presses, fermentation and even a fantastic tasting room. Of course, it is built sustainably and with energy saving practices. In the same region is Carlton, a charming turn of the century town host to several group tasting shops. After all the medias touting of Oregons famed farm-to-table food practices, there was a strange clear lack of restaurants. One sommelier bemoaned that they’ve been written about by so many food critics and wine writers, but haven’t actually had the investment yet.
A year later through 2009 - 2010 a definite shift was taking place. Adaption and caution was clearly replacing the swagger and can-do mentality and any hope that the economic turnaround was anywhere near. In fact a double dip disaster loomed. Although in California, you’re not considered a success - “unless you’ve been down several times before” - it felt like the spirit had been stifled but certainly not broken.
There was a definite movement to back when things that were good in our lives or past lives, experienced or imagined. Farmer’s markets boomed in communities, meal deals were prevalent with focus on quality not quantity. Ethnic and exotic tastes in music, food and cultures expanded. Even at the luxury end of the market, far from the glitz and the glam of the diamond incrusted 2006, austerity and retro-chic was back! The 70’s shirts and flares were left to student disco parties and it was back to post war 50’s era that took LA by charm. Back to a time when American values meant something, a nation was on the rise again after decades of a crushing depression and subsequent losses during World War 11. Idealistic yes, we all know it wasn’t that rosy.
Magnolia Bakery in Beverly Hills epitomises this revival. They serve freshly made cakes, pastries, cream teas, coffees, shakes, such as this vanilla bean cheesecake and pumpkin & walnut cupcake. With interiors that mix an old soda-fountain bar and a French patisserie from post-war Paris. Baby blue and white trim interiors, pale pine wood finishes, mixed with industrial kitchen fittings, fans and exposed AC/electrical ducts.
The French patisserie theme took off with many baking specialties such as with French macaroons by Paulette and traditional cookies by Miette. With rave reviews and followers online, one thing is clear, people still need the sweet stuff in downturns. Food trucks dominated the digital sphere with mobile grill/kitchens offering French pancakes, Chinese, gourmet burgers, Mexican, Korean - or in true LA style; Kogi Korean Mexican tacos! Often popping up in hot night life spots while followers where informed by Twitter.
How do these experiences tie-up and become relevant - well just personally speaking, as you may have guessed… with an interest in food, drink and travel, here’s an example. Some local friends managed to snag a table at The Tasting Kitchen in Venice Beach, where most of the ingredients they cook and serve are handmade. Including the root Ginger Beer mixed with premium vodka and chunky limes. Their cocktail list is a winner.
We found a mind blowing French wine so I snapped a photo of the label on my phone and sent it out to friends recommending it. Gareth responded immediately from South of France, US friends found the NY importer and my dad actually found the maker in France and proposed a road trip to find it. And so the following year - we did!
Think about it, we actually backtracked from our experience of one of the virtues of globalisation. Being able to share good French wine with friends, gain longevity and expand on the experience by creating another real life trip. In turn finding the actual maker, who promptly pulled off his farming overalls, dusted off a barrel and cracked a few 2010.
We’re yet to try the pop-up restaurant movement, but it’s earmarked for the next trip.
Although, you know the great thing about when you travel, sometimes experiences find you. A brand or company can try and duplicate the experiences, but sometimes its just the staff’s intuition and life’s cross-roads that deliver a fait de complet.
We spent my last birthday, which happens to be New Years Day, in San Francisco. We had a few drinks in a crammed bar in the Tenderloin district but needed something a tad more sedate to see in the early hours, so we went on search of the perfect hotel bar. A comfy environment, dim lighting, a good collection of aged liquor and a friendly gent who knows how to serve them. In no more then 10 mins walk in chilling rain at 11.45 pm, we came across a man in a top hat and tails in front of a nondescript single door entrance. We had to go in there. Maybe it was the two lovely ladies in my company, or he felt sorry for the obvious foreigner, or maybe it was just the SF way, but its not often you can get a door opened for you minutes to midnight on New Years Eve.
We were immediately greeted and met with glasses of Louis Roederer Champagne, dark chocolate truffles and a sommelier with an Elvis hairstyle and killer chops. Perfect! This was the Fleur de Lys, unbeknownst to us it was one of many restaurants owned by a celebrity chef, having a party. The chef passed through greeting guests personally and after having a chat, made excuses as he was needed elsewhere. 30 minutes later, on the flat screen above the bar, a live feed from the SF Macy’s Tower displayed him doing his DJ set at the W Hotel roof top party to fire works! To round off the evening, Sommelier Elvis pulled an aged single malt Scotch older than the company I was with and explained that they’d ‘found it’ when cleaning out the cellar. Will I eat there next time in town, yes, will I tell as many people as possible about the tale, yes. With such little effort, they gained infamous fame amongst peers and spread word-of-mouth.
In retail it was battle of the sales. Incredible deep discounts could be easily found at any outlet. Even the high-end high-street bargains were snapped up at such bucket prices, you almost felt duped for having ever paid more.
If retro was back for food, no more so than in fashion. Endless articles and advice abounded on how to raid your folks wardrobe and pull off a style. Or Urban Outfitters did it conveniently for you. Ironically, it still didn’t stop some whopping on a premium for vintage wear! Storefront creativity also went nuts!
As marketing budgets were slashed and store front designers went bust, in-store marketers had to make do with cheaper materials, simple ideas and do it themselves. Some clearly used this as a staff bonding morale boosting opportunity.
Some sales were actually just plain marketing strategy for the still wealthy. Once inside and surrounded by extremely high-end wear, the prices were actually slashed from US$450.00 to US$150.00 - bargain! But hey, people still felt as if they’d joined in the bargain hunting brigade and more importantly - had a story to tell.
Posted in on 24th Oct 2011
